I hope to never get sick on a flight again. But, should the worst ever overcome me again, I have a new appreciation for an unsung hero of aviation. If it weren’t for that simple paper bag, I would have ruined the pretty floor of an Airbus jet, possibly delaying a flight and destroying the days of over 100 people. Instead, I did my business in a bag, tossed it away, and got to walk away with clean hands and an intact dress.
Really, barf bags are just another reason why commercial aviation works so well today. It really seems like engineers and inventors have thought of nearly every situation that can arise in the sky, including when last night’s steak comes to haunt you on the runway.
At their best, purées deliver deep flavor, elegant texture, and incredible versatility. One of the most memorable examples I’ve ever encountered was a chicken liver mousse at Tuome in New York City. Piped from an iSi canister to give it body and loft, it arrived with milk bread and a drizzle of New York maple syrup. Light yet simultaneously rich and savory, it hd the essence of a savory frozen yogurt — indulgent without being heavy. I’ve been chasing that dish ever since.
One of the most refreshing aspects of this collection is that, despite how much it careens into grief, it never goes so far as to be despairing. Gander shows a strong respect for the human experience and all that includes — especially the darker parts of being a person. In doing so, he presents a collection that shows his grief without ever being overwhelmed by it, a delicate balance that communicates how deeply he loves and how actively he still lives.
I Want Everything is a playful, delicious tale of deception that speaks to the human cost of fulfilling naked ambition.